Hair Color Wheel

Something Not Many Colorists Utilize Fully

Hair Color Wheel Picture

Regarding hair color wheel, a fascinating fact to note is that…

It is an open secret for dyeing like a pro. But… the irony is that it is the most underutilized power tool of dyeing.

Interestingly, it isn't just the savvy or novice color crazy lot that tends to undervalue the importance of the wheel…

There are a few professionals either who seem to miss the magic of the wheel... all the while being keen to get the color they intend to get.

Next Chapter>> Understanding the Hair Color Chart

Hence, your interest in learning about the hair color wheel sets you apart from most.

Well, in spite of writing these lines, 'me too' had times when I questioned its significance… (I am not an exception!)


  • Why in the world should one know about it, let alone the bother of learning?
  • Doesn't the color box contain the leaflet with detailed 'How To' instructions?
  • How could it relate to a non pro, who simply wants to color hair for good?

And here is all I learnt!

Let me start by telling you that, Hair color wheel is the most boring yet most exciting topic in coloring.

If you have ever heard of it before then you are well aware of this fact. Let me elaborate if you aren't…

  • Boring in the sense that it's more of a pro level knowledge and is just too much of a work for an 'at home' colorista, to learn about it.
  • And exciting in the sense that it's the only know how of coloring that gives you - The savvy colorista, an absolute edge over the novice yet color crazy lot of your friends and colleagues.

I am sure by now you are thinking that the hair color wheel IS good for pros or the advanced colorists.

Well… that's not completely wrong, nor is completely true. Knowledge of hair color wheel is in fact just as valuable to the novice colorists.

Why? Because they are the ones with the highest probability of ending up really bad, without proper knowledge of the color chemistry!

So… no matter whether you are a newbie, a savvy 'frequent dyer' or a color professional… learning and mastering the wheel could help you in getting 'THAT' coveted color at home or in acquiring an absolute professional edge.

Yes, it's a bit of WORK… to learn… Who said, getting an edge at something was ever possible without work?

And… coloring hair, becoming an ordinary day to day affair, more and more people are keen to learn about it. Then why shouldn't you?

How could Hair Fad forget about this really important piece, in the Tao of dyeing!

So, for you the trendy colorista, this article is an attempt to simplify the wheel jargon as much as possible. (I am breathing heavy, already!)

Hair Color Wheel - The Background!

Coming to the senses, if you are even a bit versed with the world of colors then you might have already heard about the color wheel.

Artists, designers and even bakers use it as a reference… to know about what colors work together best, what colors can be mixed to get another shade or color and what colors antagonize or enhance one another.

Hence and for the same reason, the wheel found its way IN to the world of HAIR coloring… to get a reference, as to what colors or shades work together well and how to enhance or nullify a particular color?

They group them as analogous, complimentary, split complimentary, triadic, tetradic and blah, blah…

I hear you say, "But you said you will simplify it?" Yes, pardon me and digest the highlighted paragraph. And I promise you will be spinning the wheel like a real pro rather than spinning on it yourself! Oops…

I hear you say "So… funny". Indeed, nothing's funny here, because we are trying to learn something to avoid looking funny when we finish dyeing. Please be patient… as you are very close to unveil the biggest secret of coloring like a pro.

Hair Color Wheel - Why Should YOU Bother about It?

Now let's have a look at why you should bother about wheel and the coloring jargon.

You see, hair color wheel offers a few distinct advantages… and these advantages once utilized correctly, reward you with a solid foundation in getting the edge - savvy colorista and the novice colorist alike. How? Well…

  • If you know the color chemistry before starting out, then you know exactly what color you should get when you finish dyeing. And that's something very few "at home colorists" could figure out beforehand.
  • You know how to match up, if by chance you don't get what you want.
  • More liberty in flirting boldly with the current hair color trends.
  • Above all you know what colors and shades you must purchase or not to purchase, with respect to your current hair color.

I can speak on and on regarding where else you could use it, but I think you did already get the HINT. You are smart enough to think of the rest! ;-)

What Is a Hair Color Wheel?

Hair color wheel can be defined as a chart of reference, showing the relationship between colors, while red, yellow and blue are considered as primary colors.

Picture of Primary Colors - Red, Yellow and Blue

Yes… Red, Yellow and Blue are the three basic colors in the palette of hair dyeing.

They are termed as Primary Colors, because…

They cannot be formed by mixing other colors together. And all the other colors (secondary and tertiary, which we will discuss in a moment) are derived from these three primary colors.

Picture of Secondary Colors - Orange, Green, and Purple

Orange, Green and Purple (violet) are called Secondary Colors. Why? Because…

They can be obtained by mixing the primary colors red, yellow and blue.

The equations below tell you exactly how…

  • Red + Yellow = Orange
  • Red + Blue = Purple
  • Blue + Yellow = Green

Last but never the least are the Tertiary Colors. These are the colors created by mixing together, various combinations of primary and secondary colors.

Tertiary Colors are six in number, namely red-orange, red-violet, blue-violet, blue-green, yellow-green and yellow-orange.

When you mix a primary color with an adjacent secondary color in equal proportions you get a tertiary color e.g. red + violet = red violet.

That is the reason they are in between a primary and a secondary color, on the hair color wheel picture above.

Go here if you are curious to explore the nitty gritty of colors in general in details.

In short hair color wheel is at the root or at the core of hair color chart system in general.

Relationship between Neutralizing Colors and the Wheel

Picture of neutralizing primary and secondary colors

Neutralizing a hair color in general terms of coloring equals darkening a color.

It is done by mixing a primary color along with a secondary color opposite to it on the hair color wheel.

These two opposing colors are commonly called as complimentary colors. In the hair world however, they are referred often as neutralizing colors. (Refer to the picture above)

It's the wheel in action behind the scenes that…

  • When you mix all the primary colors (red, yellow and blue) equally, you get a brown.
  • When you want to nullify (neutralize) a primary color you are told to look at a secondary color exactly opposite, on the wheel… and vice versa.

You will better understand what I am telling, once you read and understand the levels system.

Examples of Hair Color Wheel in Action!

The hair color wheel exhibits its power by making RULES OF THE GAME OF COLORING.

How? Well… through the hair color levels system, which is in common use.

And yes… it's not just the hair; rules of the wheel system remain the same universally, no matter where they are applied.

And this brings us to the ultimate boon of the wheel besides hair or coloring… and I simply can't resist my temptation to tell you what!

For a trendy fashionista learning the color wheel is worth all the hardships and is well worth a thousand bucks…

The wheel could help you become the ultimate chic in everything you wear and carry!

Ask How? You can apply this 'not so common' know-how of colors while choosing your clothing, eyeliner, mascara or a gloss. Think about it and the rest!

So, enough with the theory… I know you need a few real life examples of the hair color wheel in action! Well here you go…

Visit the page on hair color chart a.k.a. hair color levels system for examples. (It is beyond the scope of this page to put it all here.)

Please come back to this page, when you are done reading the levels.

Hair Color Wheel - Words of Wisdom

At last and finally… you are equipped with the knowledge, very few coloristas out there are. I could palpate your excitement! And I heartily congratulate you for that…

However, (I hate this part of things as much as you do!)

I must warn you that unless you understand the hair color wheel fully and are in tune with the basics of hair coloring, you may end up unlucky in your trysts with the wheel!

That's more so, when you are going to make a permanent and a drastic change.

A level or two, up or down, may not be a big deal, but more than that and you enter the potentially danger zone of coloring. However it does indeed depend upon how timid or steadfast one is, in the application of knowledge thus gained.

You will fare much better with the help of a salon professional… Observe her closely, ask her questions and the next time over you are ready to dare big… by INTENTION and not by chance!

I recommend you and every trendy colorista out there to learn and use the hair color wheel to its fullest potential and to your fullest LEVELS OF TOLERANCE ;-)

For all the good reasons elaborated above, so NERDILY!

Well… as of today, HF's Coloring Guide For The Home Colorist consists of seven must read chapters. (The last two are optional yet highly recommended to read)

PS: The order of the chapters is in fact the order of priority for you while learning to color at home.

Chapter 1: Preface to the hair coloring tips

Chapter 2: Hair coloring tips part 1

Chapter 3: Hair coloring tips part 2

Chapter 3: Hair color wheel

Chapter 4: Hair color chart

Chapter 5: Guide to the process of coloring at home

Optional Chapters for the "fine tuning":

Chapter 6: Choosing hair color

Chapter 7: Finding the right hair color

You will reap maximum benefits, if you read all the chapters, exactly in the order they appear here. Do not feel overwhelmed by trying to read it all now. Bookmark this page and come back here to read a chapter whenever you have an hour or half free for yourself!


Conclusion: Hair color wheel is THE TOOL for savvy colorists and professionals. It gives them the power to experiment and play around with the colors more boldly, creatively and vividly. While it is the ONLY TOOL for beginners in coloring to avoid color mishaps and being dateless!

Wish you all the best in experimenting with the hair color wheel and hope you get the best results ever coloring. But I think I must quit before that ;-)

Want to learn more on coloring and the current trends? Well then, here's a bunch of articles from our hair coloring section

Now, come on and be social enough to share your opinions, tips or expertise regarding this topic or dyeing in general here. It's easy!

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